Friday, July 17, 2015

Georgian Bay, Canada: Midland to Frying Pan Bay

Day 29
NM today: 28
NM total: 653
Locks today: 0
Locks total: 70

We had hoped to get away from the Midland town harbor bright and early, but when we woke in the morning, the winds were still howling and the flags were still flapping madly.  We decided that we would wait to see if the winds died down a bit, so instead of a rushed breakfast, we took our time.

Before we left Clark decided that he would replace the holding tank filter for our head because there seemed to be an unpleasant odor lingering around the steps to the state rooms.  It didn’t take him long to replace the part, but the filter cost almost $150.  Fortunately the marine store right there at the docks had the part he needed so he wasn’t off on his bicycle in search of a replacement filter.

When all was said and done, we pulled away from the marina just after 10:00 for the trip to Frying Pan Bay which is part of the Canada Parks system.  We had heard that if you get there early enough there is space on a dock to tie up.  We ended up following Ariel who was also staying at Midland and had the same planned route / next stop.  The dock is a T-shaped dock.  Ariel is on the base of the T and we are on the left arm, so almost stern to stern.

We were greeted at the dock by local Canadians who basically spend the summer tied to this dock.  They rapidly got our lines secured with a style of knot that even Clark was not familiar with.  They put a slip knot in the line, then fed the line through the ring on the dock, then back up to put the line through the middle of the slip knot, then pulled it back towards the ring and pulled it all tight and tied it off with a couple of half-hitches.  I’m not sure I can repeat it but I’m going to try.  The end result is a secure knot with a quick release.

They were very helpful in filling us in on the lay of the land and point out the sights to see and what to avoid.  Multiple trails are on Beausoleil Island with a couple of nice ones near the docks at Frying Pan Bay, so as soon as we had eaten lunch, we set out to explore.  In advance of going on our hike, they told us to watch out for the bear, the rattle snakes (the length of a picnic table), and the mosquitoes.  We didn’t see the bear which is a very good thing because we later learned she is a mother with two cubs.  Yikes!  We never saw or heard a rattle snake – what a shame! (Not), but man-oh-man did we find the mosquitoes.

I’m not a great lover of insect repellant due to my allergies, but I sprayed myself good about 30 feet into the hike. Thick and relentless, the mosquitoes dive bombed us right, left and center.  The trail takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes to complete according to the pamphlet at the dock.  I was thinking, “man this is going to be a miserable hike”, but after not too far, we came out into more sunny, open areas – not the swamp-type setting we started in, and it became much more pleasant.  Most of the trail after the initial damp area that has a board walk was natural stone and therefore somewhat rugged.  Each step required a decision on foot placement.  Some areas were steep; other areas were wet; some were covered in brush; and in some areas along the shores of the bay, the ground was sandy.  Basically we had a little bit of everything.

As I trailed along behind Clark finding my footing on the wet, overgrown areas of the trail, sometimes calling out for him to come back to provide a secure hand hold while I tackled something where I felt uncertain, I became nostalgic and thought about my youth and the happy days I spent walking through the woods by our house in Wellsboro, Pennsylvania.  Sometimes I muttered to myself that I had to marry an engineer who has to see everything to completion, i.e I knew there was no turning back on the hike, and on top of that, I had to marry an Eagle Scout who thinks nothing of hiking long distances with insects in abundance. 

We took the trail called Fairy that circles Fairy Lake, and every so often the trail would open up into an area with a wonderful view of the water with an even more wonderful cool breeze to blow away the sweat and the bugs.  I decided in some bazaar way I must be a glutton for punishment because overall I really enjoyed the hike.  Compared to the terrain at Arches National Park in Utah where I sometimes crawled on my hands and knees over sheer rock face to get to the next part of the trail, this was nothing.  Remove the mosquitoes from the picture and the hike would have been totally glorious!

Campsite on Beausoleil Island


Trail markers - we took Fairy

Fairy Lake

Trail made up mostly of rock


Hanging with other Mainship-owner Loopers on the docks of Frying Pan Bay

We passed the owners of Ariel along the way as they had taken an alternate route and ended up hiking Fairy in the opposite direction to us.  We were surprised to find them already back at their boat when we got back as they had further to go than we did from the point where we met.  They told us that Rock Me Baby had just pulled in to the bay and dropped anchor as there was no obvious room along the dock.  Shortly thereafter, Rock Me Baby came over to say hello and found out that a large boat was just leaving so they moved their boat over to join us at the dock.

A few folks jumped in to the 72 degree water for a quick swim.  Clark grabbed the kayak and went for more exploration.  Others, including me, pulled up some chairs and sat around to chat and snack a bit before dinner.  The locals told us to hide in our boats after 7:00 p.m. to avoid the mosquitoes, so around 6 something we put away the water toys, chairs, etc., and all went our separate ways to make dinner on our respective boats.


As I am typing this blog entry, Clark is strumming away on his guitar – something he hasn’t had as much time for on the trip as I’m sure he’d like.  I’m going to relax with a book for a while before calling it a night.  Tomorrow we are heading for another anchorage recommended by yet another local.  Ultimately all three boats here tonight will end up in Parry Sound but apparently on different schedules.  That’s pretty standard on the Great Loop as we play lead frog along the way.

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