Sunday, March 10, 2024

2024: Bahamas - Highbourne Cay to Staniel Cay

 9 March 2024
Arrive: Norman’s Cay 11:00
Arrive: Staniel Cay anchorage 4:15
Distance: 49 nm
Depart: Highbourne Cay anchorage 9:15

 The alarm went off at 6:30 to wake us so Clark could listen to the Chris Parker Weather Report. Later, Clark ran the generator to bring the batteries up. Once Clark was satisfied with the battery, we pulled up anchor to move on to our next stop.  Clark planned Norman’s Cay as our objective for today’s stop. We stopped at Norman’s Cay in April of 2016.

As we traveled, we heard  a vessel calling Exuma Park on the VHF radio although she pronounced it Ward-er’-ick Wells and Eczema Park.  

Below are some of the views we saw as we arrived at Norman's Cay ...






Clark remembered that when we were here in 2016, we saw mounds of dirt as a result of the planned, future marina. As we approached today, we could see a tug working near where we saw the mounds of dirt years ago.


The marina is now in operation and we saw several very large boats docked there.


Entrance to marina at Norman's Cay

As we approached the area, Clark pointed out the plane wreck that we dove on in 2016. I shuddered at the memory. It turned out to be one of the scariest experiences of my life. No matter how hard I struggled to stay away, the strong current pulled me toward that dangerous, hunk of rusty metal with sharp points everywhere.

currently small portion of wrecked airplane
above surface


2016 up-close image


some folks checking out the wreck

We saw the island we loved in 2016 apparently ravaged by hurricanes in the interim. We remembered a lone palm tree with the park bench under it, the remains of the island now contain neither adornment.




2016 image

As we looked around the area, we could find no well-protected space to drop an anchor to hide from upcoming winds. With time to spare today, we decided to continue on to the next stop on our itinerary – Staniel Cay.

Today must have been “big boat” day. As we approached Staniel Cay, we had the pleasure of seeing several mega-yachts owned by very wealthy people.

In the distance we could see a boat identified as "Seven Seas". This 5-tier boat (like the ones shown below) is owned by Steven Spielberg. (No picture)

We saw "Nita K", shown below, towing a chain of vessels including two jet skis.




The vessel below, named "SKAT", is designed to look like a military vessel, and it does! It is 236' long and 30' beam (wide) and requires 13' of water as its draft. As we approached this vessel, the captain called Clark and asked that he (Clark) adjust his course as we were, according to him, pushing him into shallow water although there was already .2 to .3 nm between us with more room between us than the with the big boys in the C&D canal. We adjusted by 10 degrees to give him more room. We're thinking there may  have been an important person on board that required this much space for security reasons.


M/V SKAT

Multi-story "big boys" coming up ...



"Infinity", shown below, shows the Cayman Islands as its home port. It measures 384' in length, 56' in width, and requires 15.5' of water for draft. It has a helicopter on the bow and two dinghies that we could see. It is owned by an Australian billionaire named Brett Blundy.

"Infinity" mega yacht


Infinity's helicopter onboard


"Vibrant Curiosity" has its helicopter on the stern. This vessel is 279' long, 46' beam, and a 13' draft. It is owned by a German businessman named Reinhold Wuerth. Online the homeport is listed as the UK.

"Vibrant Curiosity"


"Vibrant Curiosity"

Comparing this trip to the one in 2016, we have seen many more big boats and more boats in general than we saw back then.

In 2016 we visited Staniel Cay and stopped to see the “swimming pigs”. I had no desire to experience that again. As we passed by the swimming pigs area, we could see a large number of boats anchored there.


We also passed by Thunderball Cave where, in 2016, we dove underwater into the cave with a lion fish guarding the entrance. Such memories! Pictures from our time at Staniel Cay from 2016 can be seen here.

We took some pictures of the Staniel Cay area as we searched for a place to drop anchor.







The blue area on land says
"Welcome to Staniel Cay"








Plane coming into the airport here




Sunset at Staniel Cay


10 March 2024

Multiple times today, I asked myself, “Are we having fun yet?”

Even though the alarm did not go off today for the Chris Parker report, I was awake and stumbled out of bed to get sunrise pictures. Afterwards, I climbed back into bed where we hung out just relaxing to start the day.



Suddenly Clark shot out of bed and ran for the helm as the anchor alarm sounded. He came back running to tell me the boat was moving and it was not supposed to be. Don’t I just love fire drills that aren’t drills. We both had to throw on appropriate attire for running around outside the boat. I told myself it could be worse. It could have gone off in the middle of the night.

Clark decided that instead of resetting the anchor, we should find a different anchorage. He found a spot in another anchorage. Unfortunately, it offered less protection from wind and waves.

We moved from Thunderball cove to an anchorage to the west of the Southwest of Thunderball Cave. Our path is shown on the chart below via the yellow line that weaves through the picture.



From where we dropped anchor this time, we could see the boat “Dreamer” owned by Scott whom was our boat neighbor at Marlin Bay. Clark spoke to him and learned he was there picking up his guests.

Since by now it was 10:00 and neither of us had eaten a single bite of food, I decided to cook us an omelet for breakfast. When I went to light the propane stove, nothing happened. Not a single burner would make a spark to light a burner. Had I not been so hungry, I would have thought to use a lighter to start the flames.

Instead, I yelled for Clark to come fix the problem. I reminded Clark that last time we had this problem, it was a dead battery for the igniter. He pulled out the existing battery, and instead of replacing it like I would have done, he pulled out his contact cleaner and meter to clean it up and put it back.

Even when reinserted, only one burner would light. When I said this to Clark, he pulled out the old battery and put in a new one. Finally I had all three burners working.

We had planned to take a trip into town to have a look around since we did not do that in 2016. However, Clark realized that since today was a Sunday, stores may be closed. He tried to call the one he wanted to visit and got no answer, so that put an end to that plan for the day.

Instead, he fixed a problem with the inverter settings. The power sharing was set for a 50 amp breaker but the inverter has only a 30 amp breaker. Whenever the inverter is doing a heavy charge using up to 25 amps of power and I need to use the microwave, it trips a breaker. With power sharing set to 30 amps, the charger should back off to keep the total under 30 amps. Clark knew the cause of the problem and had a workaround, but since he had the time, he decided to adjust the power sharing settings.




While he did that, I dusted and vacuumed the boat.

Later, late afternoon, I was entertaining myself with a jigsaw puzzle app, and Clark came running telling me the boat was wandering into shallow water because of a current shift. There are strong currents between Thunderball cave and the two adjacent little islands. See pictures above and below. Twice in one day – an anchor emergency! I thought we could just shorten the anchor line to pull us into deeper water. Clark decided we had to move.

We wandered around the anchorage from place to place. Unfortunately, others had the same issue, and multiple boats were repositioning at the same time because with wind against current, no boat was swinging in the same direction as the others. The current coming between the islands was pushing the boats away from the source of the current between the islands. 

In addition to that chaos, we would have to allow the full swing room for every boat. Normally boats all point in similar directions. The boat pattern today was entirely random. We could not figure out a swing radius for our boat to know if we would collide with other boats in the anchorage on the next tide or wind change.





After two sail boats proceeded to drop their anchors right were we were planning to drop, we decided to look for another anchorage spot. We went back to the anchorage we had this morning  but left again without even attempting to drop the anchor.

At one point I thought we might have to leave and head to Blackpoint to find a place to drop anchor. Given the time change, we had an extra hour of daylight to play with if we had to go to that extreme to find a place for the night.

Finally we found a well-protected spot in a more remote anchorage. It will be a longer dinghy ride to town but we have a lot less wave action here than we had before we moved the second time today.



On the bright side … we have less rocking, searching for a new spot for 90 minutes brought our batteries up to full charge, and we weren’t repositioning in the middle of the night.

Here are some pictures of the new anchorage.








The current switched in the evening and we saw the anchor lights from all the boats we had to weave through to get to the new spot now off the stern.




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