Friday, March 8, 2024

2024 Bahamas: Nassau to Highbourne Cay

7 March 2024
Depart: Rose Island Beach anchorage near Nassau, Bahamas 10:50
Distance: 34 nm
Arrive: Highbourne Cay anchorage 3:25

We had an awful night last night as a squall showing as a red area on the weather radar passed through the area north of us. The winds were from the east, but the waves were coming from the north, which was an unprotected direction, hitting us broadside.  The effects of the storm started at 2:30 and stayed with us until 6:30 in the morning. The highest intensity of the storm hit around 3:30.

While Clark seemed able to sleep through the storm, I could not as I was too worried about the rocking and concerned that the anchor might give causing us to start drifting.  Every once in a while the boat would pull against the anchor, and we could feel the boat shudder. Clark said he hoped the line was not catching on the rocks. Of course that did not help my feelings of insecurity.

As the storm intensified, the boat rocked so hard that things rattled back and forth with the waves. We both jumped when we heard a large crash right next to the bed. One of my plastic crates with art supplies in it fell from the top of the shelving to the floor. Boom! Clark shot out of bed like lightning to investigate. After that, I could not stand all the worry and commotion with the lights off. It seemed less disconcerting with the light on.

About 4:00 a.m., when I thought Clark was fast asleep, he suddenly jumped out of bed and ran for the upper helm. That made my heart race. After he opened the hatch to the upper helm, I heard an alarm sounding from there. He had placed our naughty, wolf-crying smoke alarm up there to get it out of the cabin. Apparently, besides all its other complaints, it did not appreciate getting damp from the rain!

Just as things started to settle down, my alarm went off. It was 6:30 and time for Clark to get up and listen to the “Chris Parker” weather report. I tried to get some more sleep, but it was useless. The sooner we got out of here, the better.

I worked on the blog in the morning until 10:30. Clark ran the generator to help bring the batteries up in charge.

We had two choices for today, stay here or move on. I told Clark I could not take another day in this hell, so we better get going. I have never been more thankful than I was last night that we suffer no ill effects of seasickness. The only thing worse than what we had last night would be feeling ill on top of it all. Clark says that people aren't as likely to get seasick with their eyes closed.

We left late morning because Clark said the cloud cover should be less leaving when we did. Our trip today was across open water with about 4 hours of watching the water with an eagle eye looking for rocks at depths to cause us a concern. Cloud cover inhibits the ability to see ahead to scope out what is coming up. Determining which dark area may present an issue is much harder than it sounds as the water is so clear that things under water appear closer to the surface than they actually are. Clouds darken the water reducing visibility.

The last views of Nassau as we continued our travels ...



Porgee Rocks Navigation Aid
marks the start of the paths to
the Exumas


For a portion of the trip across Yellow Bank, we needed to use Visual Piloting Rules, VPR. The chart showed a dashed  line on the route for the areas where we were on our own to look for rocks! The X's shown on the chart below are known rocks. 



I think it very strange as we travel the waters here that I have seen almost no sea life or birds. I look down from the helm, and water and rocks are all I see. We took no pictures until we arrived at our next anchorage area. We see few motor vessels and many, many sailing vessels.







We anchored near the Bahama Telco cell tower. If you can see their towers, you can expect cell service.


We had a lovely sunset and the sailboat added to the beauty of the picture.


8 March 2024
Dinghy Exploration of the Islands of Highbourne Cay

 After almost no sleep the night before, I slept soundly last night sleeping right through another smoke detector false alarm in the middle of the night. This time Clark had placed it in the box and put it out in the cockpit where the evening dew apparently got in the sensor. This time when it went off, he could not get it to stop alarming by moving fresh air through the unit. There is a button to disable the alarm for false alarms as when cooking. This doesn't work however if the smoke is too thick, which it was apparently sensing the dew as a high smoke condition. 

With other boats anchored nearby, it had to be stopped. This is a Kidde unit that cannot be opened. It has a built in Lithium battery permanently installed inside, so it is not possible to just remove the battery. This unit has a end of life switch that requires breaking a paper seal to insert a screwdriver into the slot to flip the switch. This turns off the alarm and discharges the battery rendering the alarm useless from then on. After this morning's false alarm wake up call, it will never chirp again. It is in the garbage at Hybourne Cay!

We did have some wave action yesterday evening, and I worried we would have a repeat of last night's rocking, but thankfully that did not happen. It was just some passing boats. 

When Clark got up to listen to the "Chris Parker" weather report, I got up an took a sunrise picture.



With a boyish grin, Clark announced this morning that we were going island exploring. We left about 10:30 after Clark had pumped up the batteries with juice from the generator.



First we went to see Allen’s Cay where the iguanas hang out.  We have seen plenty of boats while in the Bahamas but not people. We found some today!


Allen's Cay


Island formation


People with the iguanas


Iguana on beach at right side of picture

Our dinghy is great for traveling and awful for landing on a beach. We could only get so close for fear of running aground.

We thought the dinghy shown below looked overcrowded until we saw it again later with three more people on board - the ones shown below swimming to catch up to the dinghy!



I keep taking pictures just to capture the blue of the water. It is magnificent.




The majority of the boats here look like these.


Not sure of the attraction here -
but a whole lot of people exploring the area!



"Sweet Caroline" 
"Johnny Live's" "favorite song"


Black dot on beach is an Iguana
near center of picture

Expecting to spend a fortune if we ate at the restaurant, we stopped back at the boat to grab lunch before heading out again. After lunch, we  headed to the dinghy dock at the Highbourne Cay Marina to have a look around. We stopped to see Allen’s Cay and the iguanas in 2016 when we were here before, but we never ventured into the marina at that time.

Clark said the marina charged $6 per foot. We saw some pretty large boats in there. If we stayed at the marina, we could use bicycles to tour the island; otherwise, the island is private and off limits.


Approaching the marina


Fuel dock


We found where the motor vessels hang out!




The dinghy dock




The beach ...


The restaurant ...





We climbed a lot of stairs to get up to the restaurant. Nice view!




At $5 a bag, we disposed of a smelly, buggy garbage bag – good riddance to that. We poked our nose into the store at the marina. I was amazed to find that they had whole wheat bread as I was anticipating Wonder Bread or the equivalent. We decided to buy the bread even though there were no prices marked on anything. The one loaf cost us $7.00! Everyone told us to use cash in the Bahamas. The store only took credit cards!

Portion of wall in store
Map of the islands

View looking up the hill toward the restaurant.


 

Looking down into the water beside our dinghy, we saw an old anchor!


 

Since we had seen all that the island had to offer us, we headed back to the boat with our precious bread. Clark showed me a picture of today's touring.


Yellow line shows our travels
See red triangle on left side as our boat indicator

After that we hung out on board for the rest of the day. Clark took a dip under the boat to look at the stabilizer fins. The side he wanted to examine, however, was on the shady side so he did not have good visibility. What he could see were two very large fish enjoying the shade of the boat close to where he needed to inspect. Not having any idea what species they were, he decided not to bother the fish and came back onboard.

 He said the water was very refreshing and asked if I wanted to come in for a dip. Having just showered and washed my hair, I declined the offer. I did not want to take a second shower in one day when we are trying to conserve water as much as possible.

At sunset we had a beautiful view in the sky and entertainment on the water.




Like a motorized skateboard for the water








After dinner tonight, we watched another romantic comedy movie on DVD. One of these days I am going to have to insist on an action / adventure movie as a change of pace. Tonight we watched “Green Card”.

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