Thursday, April 21, 2016

Bahamas – Abacos: Little Harbor Anchorage


Day 284
April 20, 2016
NM Today: 57
NM Total: 4379

Sunrise at Royal Island, Eleutheras, Bahamas

I knew that Clark would decide whether to stay at Royal Island additional nights or move on to Little Harbor anchorage in the Abacos based partly on what he heard from Chris Parker’s report. Even so, I did not expect him to wake me at 7:15 and say we would leave as soon as we were ready, i.e. now! Bleary-eyed I pulled myself together and went out to assist with raising the anchor and getting underway.

The weather, wind and waves report indicated that we could escape the Eleutheras today, maybe Friday, or Monday. Today’s report indicated swells but less wind until late in the day. Leaving tomorrow was definitely out of the question. Since we had a seven hour trip, Clark wanted to get moving.

Parting View of the Royal Island Anchorage

Typically on a long travel day I make Clark a hot breakfast – somewhat similar to an Egg McMuffin. I brought that up to him at the helm and then sat down to eat my own breakfast down below. To wake up I made myself a hot tea. Since my eyes felt tired, I decided to forego the contact lenses to give them a rest. Well, I should never have had the tea and I should have taken the time to put in my lenses.

The beginning of the voyage seemed calm enough, but just over an hour into the seven hour ride, the wave action picked up. Clark said that at six to seven foot swells, the waves were larger than predicted. Fortunately the wave period was long enough for our boat to reduce the impact of the waves. Most of the swells hit us on the starboard bow quarter which also softened the impact. Unfortunately, on occasion waves came from random directions to make life more interesting.

As I sat holding onto my seat, I thought to myself, “I should never have had that cup of tea cause now I have to hit the head!” With well over five hours to go to get to our anchorage, I had to make the trip down to the head. I worked my way to and down the steps moving hand-over-hand, railing-to-railing. On the second step down the wind almost took my hat away, so I also had to deal with that.

Slowly, one step at a time I made my way below waiting at each step for any slight lull in the wave action to allow progress. Once in the salon, I had to have one hand gripping a part of the boat tightly at all times. Fortunately we have a wooden railing across the ceiling that reminds me of being on a moving subway train when I need to employ it. That allowed me to make my way across the salon to the desperately needed head.

That task completed, I decided that if I made it back up top, I would not want to be coming back down again any time soon. With the travel conditions being what they were, we would not be eating lunch underway today. I grabbed a bag and filled it full of snacks to hold us until we got to the anchorage where we could eat lunch in a much calmer setting.  Before heading back up top I surveyed the downstairs situation. I noted that the bicycles tethered at the lower helm had walked partway out into the salon but could go no further. They could stay there. I also noticed that the coffee table was slowly making progress across the salon from the starboard side to the port side. I decided that if I put it back where it belonged (no easy task), it would just walk over to port again, so I left it to decide for itself where it wanted to go. At least with it lowered, it had not toppled over and hopefully would stay upright.

One more look around and a few other miscellaneous adjustments, and I was ready to head up top. I tried paging Clark on the boat’s intercom to let him know I was on my way, but he did not answer my call. I decided he either could not hear me or he was too busy handling the boat to reply. I headed up taking it one slow step at a time with a firm grip each step of the way. Fortunately I found going up easier than going down, but still I was very relieved when I plopped myself down on the bench seat!

Normally when we travel long distances, I entertain myself in between turns at the helm with one of my hobbies. I went through my checklist:

   Embroidery? Probably end up poking myself and bleeding on the project, so no.
   Artwork? I’m not into abstract art, so no.
   Puzzle Book? I need to be able to read what I write, so no.
   Novel? Too hard to focus on the words as they moved around, so no.
   Nap? Expect to fall off the bench seat onto the floor, so no.

Okay, I had exhausted my list and it came down to watch the waves and hold on for today’s entertainment.

When I had a turn at the helm so Clark could “hit the head”, I noticed how very blue the water appeared. We have seen dark, almost navy blue water and green and turquoise waters, but today’s water was so blue – like royal blue. It was beautiful. Most of my attention was focused on figuring out which way to aim the boat to soften the impact of each wave as it came at me. I was very happy to give the boat back to her captain when he returned on deck.

Very Blue Water Crossing to the Abacos
(not Green or Turquoise)

Waves - 6 to 7 foot swells!

About three hours into the trip, Clark said “1-2-9-1-3”. I just looked at him. “Do you know what that is?” he said. “Nooooo?” I replied. “The depth of the water, 12,913 feet deep!”  Wow, and I thought 2000 feet was deep the other day.

The port side of the upper helm where I normally sit was in the shade and I was quite cold even wearing long sleeves and long pants. I made my way over to the starboard side to soak up some sun for a while and eventually decided to try lying down for a nap. The waves just kept coming relentlessly, and as I laid there the motion of the boat made me think of the Tea Cup Kiddies Ride at Asbury Park boardwalk. Instead of up and down or rolling side to side, the motion was more circular. Well the nap did not happen. I was too busy holding on. I let go at one point and almost slid right off the seat onto the floor. I didn’t do that again.

The wave action eased off for a short while early afternoon, but the last hour of the trip it got wild again. For the last six nautical miles to the Little Harbor waypoint, Clark gave a readout. “6 NM to go, 4 NM to go, 2 NM to go”. Finally I asked him if he was anxious to get to the anchorage. Most of the day he was grinning as he steered the boat. I compared his tackling the waves and trying to judge the right direction to aim the boat to playing a video game. I know he enjoyed himself out there.

One write-up we read said that the anchorage was half mooring balls and half for anchored boats. Everywhere we looked we saw a mooring ball. We could have grabbed one since they were so plentiful, but Clark did not want to pay the $20 if he did not have to. He found a place to drop anchor.

The main attraction at this anchorage, and the place to pay for a mooring ball, is Pete’s Pub. Even though I had done next to nothing today, I did not have the energy to go exploring. Clark asked if it was worth the effort to lower the dinghy and I said I didn’t feel like doing anything. We both decided to chill until dinner time.

Little Harbor in the Abacos, Bahamas

Little Harbor Anchorage

 As I was cooking dinner, I heard a boat motor and looked out the starboard window. I couldn’t believe my eyes – there was Tom from Sum Escape driving a dinghy right by our boat. I saw the expression on his face when he recognized our boat and then he immediately directed the dinghy our direction. I turned off the burners on the stove and told Clark we had a visitor. He had his wife and relatives with him. He said that it was too rough to go explore any further than the anchorage, so they were just touring when he spied our boat. 

They told us about the Full Moon Party that will happen on Friday and told us several other folks we know from our Great Loop travels will also attend the party.  The location of the party was not on our planned route, but we will try to work it into our schedule. It was great to see someone we know after so long traveling by ourselves.

After dinner Clark and I reviewed our travel plans, checked the location of the Full Moon party in relation to our next stop of Hope Town, calculated the number of days required to get ourselves back to the states, and decided that we could probably add in a trip to the Full Moon party.

At some point Clark grabbed the camera and managed to capture today’s sunset.  I think the sunrise was more impressive.

Sunset at Little Harbor Anchorage
(with Dark Clouds Forming)





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