Wednesday, November 1, 2023

2023 South: Carolina Beach NC to Hilton Head SC

28 October 2023
No boat travel

Today did not exactly go as planned, but in the long run, that was a good thing. We had three things on today's agenda - Clark wanted to wash salt off the hull, I needed bread from Publix, and we hoped to get a pump-out of the holding tank. We accomplished almost two of those items in the list. Clark washed the side of the boat he could reach from the dock, and we took a bike ride to Publix to get some supplies.

On the way out of the marina parking lot, I found a witch awaiting our approach, and she was "cackling" at us.




When we got to Publix, Clark headed off to talk to the management of a nearby marina to find out about a boat pump-out while proceeded on to the food store to start my shopping.

In the long run, we found out that getting a pump-out here is basically impossible. The marina we stayed at has no facilities available, the one across the way "hasn't worked in years" according to the locals, and the one that Clark went to talk to said they did not have one and the one at the neighboring marina was broken. Basically, we were sh#t out of luck.

As we were leaving the marina to seek out Publix, we came across folks who keep their boat here that we met at Marlin Bay in Marathon, Florida. Tricia and Steve were on their way in to load their bikes on their boat as part of their preparations to get underway in the near future for their trip south. 

Later in the day, they stopped by to say "see you later" and introduce us to some other folks staying at the marina -- Lionel and Michele aboard a M/V "Taz". That introduction turned into an impromptu docktails on the back of our boat that last for a couple of hours.  

29 October 2023
Depart: Carolina Beach Marina 8:30
Arrive: Little River Inlet / Bird Island anchorage SC 2:30
Distance: 42 nm

Based on a recommendation from Trish, Clark decided to set today's goal at trying a place we had not been before - an anchorage accessed via the Little River Inlet. We left Carolina Beach traveled through Snow's Cut, down the Cape Fear River, and then out into the ocean.



In the Southport area, we passed two lighthouses. 

Oak Island Lighthouse





A "big boy" passing us on the Cape Fear River


Bald Head Island Lighthouse
(Silhouetted into the sun)

As we approached the ocean we passed what I referred to as "Bird Island"! Note this is not the Bird Island where we dropped anchor at the end of the day.


close up look

distance view of "bird island"


Looking back at Bald Head Island LH


After three hours on the ocean, we arrived at the Little River Inlet. This inlet essentially marks the border between North Carolina and South Carolina. We were blessed with calm waters on the ocean. The ocean voyage was mostly uneventful, but we did get excited when we passed a turtle that was swimming near the surface.


Turtle in the ocean




Fishing boat on far side of rock wall  of inlet

A tour boat passed us called "Sea Screamer" at the same time a sailboat was passing by with the name "Fraid Knot".


We had a warm day today and the locals were taking advantage and acting like it was summertime at the beach. Many boats were beached with folks sunbathing nearby.






We found a place a bit away from the crowd to drop our anchor for the night.




30 October 2023
Depart: Bird Island anchorage 7:35
Arrive: Minum Creek anchorage south of Winyah Bay Inlet, SC 4:00
Distance: ~ 63 nm

Clark said we needed an early start to get better current at the other end of the trip, so we were up before the sun today.  I had the unusual experience of listening to an owl most of the night. S/he was so loud, I am convinced he was sitting on the bow railing to hoot. That was a definite first!


Reflection of almost full moon
in the early morning

Sunrise progression ...



Looper boat - "Shandie"



Other boats in the anchorage

Due to the owl action all night, Evelyn needed to lie down underway.


Clark's crew hard at work

We traveled about six hours on the ocean. The only point of interest was that we could smell the paper mill at Georgetown, SC well before we got anywhere near it. The winds must have been coming from the south today.
More birds -- on jetty leading into the inlet


sunken sailboat
that apparently got too close to the jetty


Pretty calm ocean today -
a little rougher than yesterday's

Just about every marker is covered in birds no matter whether they are red or green!






One would think that a lighthouse for an inlet would have good visibility from the ocean. The view of this one got better and better the further in we got.




Georgetown Lighthouse

Coming in the inlet, we passed this vessel that looked like a bus on floats from a distance. It turned out the be a tour boat.



We dropped anchor in the middle of nowhere with minimal cell service. There was no hope of working on the blog tonight. As we were deciding where to drop anchor, I saw an alligator swim by. Unrelated to that siting, we opted to drop anchor elsewhere where we would have more swing room. I was okay with the move.

The anchorage we chose, however, gave us wind fighting current, so the anchor line was a full 90 degree angle off the boat when we declared ourselves set for the night. We had much discussion before we called it a  day. We saw a trap off to the side. The question in mind ... when the boat swings will it go over the trap or miss it? Tide change here was around 6 feet or so, and that had to add into our guesswork on where the boat might swing to during the night.



31 October 2023 "Happy Halloween"
Depart: Minum Creek -2 anchorage 7:55
Arrive: Church Creek anchorage 4:30
Distance: 64 nm

We were up early enough that I ran outside to take sunrise pictures. Unfortunately, it did not look like I would get any great shots due to the thick, dark cloud blocking the view of the sun.

Here is the progression ... 








I called it quits when Clark said it was time to get the engines started and the anchor up.

Since I had the camera handy, I took some pictures of the area as we got read to get underway.





Boat anchored in anchorage where I saw the alligator



Clark pointed out that we would have a second sunrise today as the sun made its way out from behind the dark clouds low to the ground.






The fog rolled in for a while today.





We have had very little boat traffic on this year's journey south. The scenery is mostly marshes and some trees.

Two guys fishing 



No matter how many times we travel through South Carolina, the length of their walkways to their docks amazes me. Every time!

No idea where the house is at the end of this dock

Here's another one.
Long walk over the marshes to the boat.
(don't forget the bug spray)

Clark asked me to drive for a while so he could read email, etc. I told him I was fine "sipping my tea and watching the buoys go by" while he read.




We did not know what they were doing along the ICW with the backhoes and such - besides making cute little piles of dirt all over the place.


Close Encounters?





As per usual, we were chased through South Carolina by seagulls expecting us to throw fish off the stern of the boat. As they swoop at the boat, they tend to give me the creeps and remind me of the Hitchcock movie "The Birds". 



There's not much of interest to look at, but every once in a while, we find some structure or another that peaks our interest.




I got excited when I saw some flowering plants and bushes instead of just marsh grass. 



Yet more long walkways to docks ...

This dock has a 90 degree turn about half way.



More marshes ... Extra high tide.






Some hardy trees clustered together in the midst of all that wetness.


Finally, a boat! Clark liked the looks of this ketch.






When we came to Charleston, SC we passed Fort Sumter.

Fort Sumter and Tour Boat


Fort Sumter Tour Boat


"Spirit of Charleston" Tour Boat

We have visited Charleston a few times before and did not stop on this trip. After passing Charleston, we arrived at Elliot's Cut where we had a 4-knot current against us! We dropped from 8 kts to 4 kts as we passed through here.



We turned into Church Creek around 4:00. This is an anchorage we have used many times. Today we found only one other boat in the anchorage. Sometimes, in the past, it has been so busy it was hard to find a spot to drop the anchor. Today we had lots of space to choose from. Clark chose a spot where he believed we would be protected from the winds predicted to pick up over night.

1 November 2023
Depart: Church Creek anchorage (south of Charleston, SC) 8:30
Arrive: Bull Creek anchorage (north of Savannah GA) 4:50
Distance: ~69 nm

A cold front came in over night. We felt some of that wind that Clark said would be coming as it caused some minor rocking motion on the boat. The warmer weather is definitely gone as we woke to 50 degrees and pulled out our heavier coats to start the day.

When I checked the weather, it gave the weather station as "Hollywood".  I had to look at the map to verify that's where we were.


We had winds gusting to 30 knots today which gave us white caps on the rivers. 

On the Edisto River


Waves and marshes

Random pictures of scenery on our voyage today ... 






Clark said, "It must be very high tide today. The ICW markers are almost under water!"



Water is up to the tippy top of the marsh grass

We found one other boat in the anchorage Clark chose for tonight - not counting the sunken sailboat located there.



Our neighbor for the night



Town off in the distance.


Anchored at the blue dot.

I managed, with Clark's help, to remember to get a sunset picture today.



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