Tuesday, July 7, 2015

Peterborough to Lakefield, Canada

Day 19
Travel Time: ~ 5 hours
NM today: 8
NM total: 508
Locks today: 7
Locks total: 54

Mornings on departure days are always busy and today was no exception.  Clark was out of his allergy medicine so we had to find a pharmacy.  He went out on his bike once, couldn’t find the pharmacy, returned to get more directions from the marina internet, and set out again.  The first pharmacy of course did not carry what he needed but told him the Canadian equivalent brand which he found at a pharmacy a few blocks further on. 

After he came back he filled the water tank – a critical agenda item given our planned next stop has no amenities – no water, electric, showers, or internet.  We stopped over to say hello to the folks on Ariel who just arrived at the marina.  Next to them on their dock was the 1929 wooden boat.  We also talked with them and learned that they were getting ready to pull up their lines and move out for the day.  Clark decided he wanted to travel alongside this old boat, so we turned in our dock keys, hauled in our lines and took off in record time.  

I was incorrect in yesterday’s blog.  The wooden boat itself is called High Tea and the dinghy is named Tea for Two.  We learned by talking to them that they are not the owners but a hired captain and crew to move the vessel for the captain.  The captain explained to us that they were taking it to a port further along in Canada and then the top cabin of the boat would be removed so the boat could be shipped by truck to its ultimate destination.  Looking at the condition of that lovely wood, it is hard to believe someone would be willing to disassemble the boat, but I guess you do what you have to do.  The boat was built in Canada and so the story goes, it is being returned from whence it came – back to its home town or near there.


Top of boat (teak) to be removed for transport

Changing homes - RI to Canada

 We had 7 locks to tackle today including the historic lift lock we had heard about and seen by bicycles.


Sitting in the "cake pan" of water, tied to the railing,
waiting for the lift lock to take us up

I have to say that locking through with the historic boat was more of a pain than a pleasure.  All the lock attendants were concerned for the “old lady” and filled the locks at slow speed.  Grrrr.   Today the sun was out in full force.  Down in the locks there is not even the slightest breeze.  On the bow there is no shade for me to hide in.  I melted all day long – or at least 5 hours of it.  I truly thought I might have heat stroke at one point if I wasn’t careful, so as soon as we pulled out of the lock, I ran for the shade and a liter of water.   In all of 5 hours we only traveled 8 nautical miles.  That’s the equivalent of 9 statute miles.  I'm pretty sure I could have walked it faster!? 

Clark got chatty with the captain of the old boat as we went through 7 locks with them.  Through the course of conversation, he discovered they have a battery problem on board.  He volunteered to look at the battery to see what he could diagnose in return for a tour of the boat.  As soon as we tied off lines he took off running with his voltage meter to see what he could learn.  I, on the other hand, went and ran water over my head to help me cool down.  I also exchanged one shirt for another to see if it would help with my overheating.  It did - quite nicely.

When Clark returned from High Tea, he said, “they’re all happy”, so I gathered he addressed their problem.  It turned out that they have a bad alternator, which didn’t sound like it would make me happy.  Then Clark explained that he explained to them how they can use their generator to charge the battery until the alternator is fixed.  Then I understood why they were happy – they had a work around solution to their issue.  Clark offered to take me over for a tour of the old boat but I said I’d pass and look at his pictures later.  I have as much interest in seeing the hot insides of that boat right now as Clark has of exploring museums, which in case you can’t tell is about none at all.

I told Captain Clark that I would prefer to get an earlier start in the mornings.  I hate leaving late and then getting into the next town so late that everything has closed for the day by the time we come to explore.  Also, I can’t take this melting heat; an earlier start would allow us to travel some of the time at a cooler part of the day.  Problem is that Clark is a night owl and cannot easily change his life habits.  I guess I’ll just have to start pulling him out of bed earlier whether he likes it or not.

By the time we got on our bikes to explore it was already 6:00, and guess what, all the stores in town were closed.  We found several restaurants including a pub and an ice cream store.  I checked the pub menu and found the steak pie I’ve been longing for this whole trip.  Sadly, it was labeled “steak and mushroom pie” and I am allergic to mushrooms.  Sigh!  I’ll keep looking.  We finished our tour of the town and decided to head home for supper before coming back for ice cream.


WWI, WWII, and Korean War Memorial in Lakefield


Old Church in Lakefield


Store in Lakefield offering Makeovers

Since I have been longing for pub food, I decided to be adventurous in my own kitchen and made makeshift Cornish Pasty for dinner.  I didn’t feel like using the boat oven, so I took a chance on cooking the pastry-wrapped meat / potatoes on the stove top using a skillet as my oven.  It worked as I expected it might.  The Cornish Pasty dinner was surprisingly good.  I wanted to keep eating but knew there was ice cream in the near future so saved some pasty for another meal.

We had one mishap during the dinner-making timeslot.  Clark put the DC fan on for me to blow the heat out of the boat while I cooked.  Part way through the cooking I heard a POP and the fan stopped.  Of course Clark was nowhere to be seen.  Where was he?  Gabbing with the folks on that old boat again.  I yelled down the dock and he came running (expecting dinner to be ready) and I told him the news about the fan.  He proceeded to take it apart as he suspected it was the fuse that had popped.  It was the fuse but the fan has bad bearings and there is no hope for a repair.  Now I have to cook in the heat.  We had one of these fans that lasted for 15 years from one boat to the next but the plastic housing finally dried out and collapsed.  We have had 2 since that didn’t even last 2 years each.  Clark muttered something about Taiwanese motors.  Never one to through anything in the garbage, the fan is now stored on the boat for future consideration – perhaps sometime in 2016 when we are back home.  Gotta love it!

At 8:15 we set off on our bikes to go to the ice cream store which was reasonably close.  Clark said that if we used our bikes we could outrun the bugs which sounded like a great idea.  I just had to remember to bike with my mouth closed as we went along!  That’s one thing I cannot understand.  How can such a northern country have so many bugs!?  I am so glad that we either purchased or made screens for every window and door on the boat.

The ice cream was a nice treat after a long hot day.  After the ice cream treat we biked to Foodland which is open 24 hours to buy vegetables to replenish my stock.  As we waited at the corner for the light to change, the local town cop drove by and slowed down to say something to us.  We both thought he was going to complain about something – probably our lack of lights as it was already dusk. (We had lights in our backpacks but weren’t using them yet.)  Instead he yelled, “Are you boaters?”  We said yes and then he said he could tell by our funny-looking bikes and kept on going. 

Zucchini is a main food in our diet, and I am sad to report that it is nearly impossible to buy in this country.  I found it in one store but it was beyond its expiration date before I got there, so I had to pass.  I found it in one store and grabbed some up.  I haven’t seen it since.  I bought broccoli which we haven’t eaten since we left NJ and French-style green beans, and spinach.  The first two aren’t great choices as it is hard to cook broccoli on the boat – too much time to boil water and too much steam, and Clark is not a great fan of green beans.  I’ll sauté the beans in olive oil as he enjoys them cooked that way.  However, my hunt for more zucchini is ongoing!


With no showers, internet, or TV and after a long day of hard work and exercise, I went to bed immediately after finishing the dirty-dishes-cleanup duty.  Clark has been very good about helping with the dishes, so the job goes pretty quickly.  With no hot water heater (we’re not great fans of generators) we had to do the dishes while there was still hot water in the tank from the day’s driving.  (The water in the hot-water tank heats naturally by virtue of being a metal tank in the engine room – so hot in fact that it is near scalding.)  

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