Monday, July 30, 2018

TI: Brockville, Canada

Sunday 7/29/2018
Depart: Clayton, NY 9:10
Arrive: Brockville Canada Municipal Marina 12:10
Distance: 28 nm

Navigating the waters around the islands can be a bit confusing as everywhere one looks one sees yet another island.


Islands on St. Lawrence River

Highly-terraced House

House on Bedrock Island
Along the way to Brockville we passed "Singer Castle" owned by the fifth CEO of the Singer Corporation. Unlike Boldt Castle, Singer Castle was finished and lived in by the family. Although we could have stopped for a tour, we decided two castles in two days would be one too many and kept going.



Singer Castle

Looking back at Singer Castle and Boathouse
We arrived in Brockville to find the AGLCA Harbor Host, Bob, standing on the dock to greet us. Before we could do much socializing, however, we had to check in with Canadian customs. It took Clark quite a while on hold before he finally got his check-in number and approval.


Arriving at Brockville Canada

Tall Ships Landing - Condo complex
- tallest building in Brockville


By the dock where we tied up


Brockville Harbor
After we got settled in, we walked with Bob to see the famous train tunnel in town.





Light show and music in tunnel with
Occasional sound effects and lights of an oncoming train
After a quick peak at the tunnel, we walked back to Bob's condo at Tall Ships Landing to meet his wife Mavis. They have great views from their condo.









After Clark and I left the condo, we went back to the boat and grabbed our bikes. We found out they have a nice bike trail in town, and we decided some time on wheels would be a great way to see the area. We headed east to the end of the trail then passed through town to pick up the west end of the trail.


Biking along the St Lawrence River

Caboose

Swimming Hole dating to 1922 and before

Historic Home on road up hill to Court House


Mural on a Law Office Building




View of town from Courthouse site

Courthouse

"Sally Grant" Lady Liberty
statue on top of courthouse

Historical Marker describing the courthouse and jail
(in French!)

Rowhouses in Brockville Canada

We thoroughly enjoyed our small biking excursion off the water and into the trees.


Wooden Bridge on Bike Trail








Brockville Museum
(we did not stop in today)




Boardwalk along the river


Marker describing local events of War of 1812
 The trail took us right onto the Tall Ships Landing condo property which we followed  back to our marina.


Following the tracks to TSL
We planned to eat dinner with Bob and Mavis this evening. After our bike ride, we both grabbed showers and then headed out to the Buell Street Bistro to meet them. Just as we left our boat, we saw the "Black Jack" tall ship come in to dock at the harbor. The captain battled the wind with a somewhat ineffective crew as he struggled to get the boat to dock.





We left for our walk to the restaurant early enough that we could go there via a walk through the tunnel. With Bob, we only walked a short distance in, and we wanted to see the whole tunnel. The walk through the tunnel doubled the distance to the restaurant as the tunnel brought us out near the courthouse and then we had to walk back down towards downtown.


Signs every few feet describe the tunnel and its construction c.1860.

Mineral deposits on walls from constantly dripping water


Periodic Road signs
This one says James Street is 56' above!

"Light at the End of the Tunnel"

We enjoyed our dinner with Bob and Mavis at the restaurant and then we all went in search of ice cream. Outside the ice cream stand we found a metal sculpture. Mavis explained that it was built to resemble a real person who dressed in the clothes of a hobo annually for a parade in town and pushed a trained chicken in a stroller.


Metal "Hobo" Sculpture
We did not capture a sunset picture tonight. Instead we got to see something we no longer see everyday ...


Phone booth at the marina!




TI: Boldt Castle

Depart: Clayton 8:30
Arrive: Boldt Castle 9:50 (travelling U.S. side of River)
Distance: 10 nm
Depart: Boldt Castle 2:00
Arrive: Clayton 4:15 (traveling Canada side of River)
Distance: 17 nm

Clark had hoped to move on to Alexandria Bay; however, they had no room at the docks for us there for tonight. Instead we stayed one extra night at Clayton. The only drawback meant that we had to backtrack and cover some territory a second time to move on to the next stop on the itinerary.

Traveling to Boldt Castle really brought home the reason this area is called "Thousand Islands". They are everywhere - some large and some small and everything in between. Any island large enough to hold a house has one.

In the "Gilded Age" of the late 1800s early 1900s, people built mansions on the islands large enough to hold one. Some people who wanted their own island, and couldn't find one that suited them, made their own. They would find an area with shoaling, build a bulkhead around the area, and fill it in to make an island.

The land here contains a lot of bedrock. How they built on it and provided themselves with plumbing services, I have no idea!


Island Houses

This island comes with a lighthouse!

House on Dock next to an Island

Solid Rock Base
Clark named this one "Picnic Island"
Park-like island with nothing but picnic tables and a cooking area

We arrived at Boldt Castle around 9:45 but could not figure out where we could dock. We knew they had a long dock (60' worth) if we could only find it. The obvious docking space was off limits - either used by tourist boats coming in and out or U.S. Customs to check in people coming from Canada.

Finally, with some yelling and gesturing from a crew member on the Boldt Castle shuttle boat, we found the space where we needed to dock. Then the problem we had was getting there. As we approached the dock, the water depth got less and less until we feared we would be touching bottom. With all the rock in the area, running aground is a very bad idea.

Clark positioned me on the bow and I gave him feedback and what I saw below us - a lot of weeds. He managed, with my help, to "feel" his way into the dock. Sadly, the place where we tied up was quite foul (fowl) as it was covered in seagull droppings and feathers. I suggested moving further along, but Clark was so unsure of water depths he felt more comfortable docking with the bird stuff than venturing further in. I carefully worked with my lines to avoid dragging them through anything unsavory.

The story of George Boldt, his wife Louise, and the castle is quite a tragic love story. Boldt loved his wife so much he decided to have a castle built just for her. It would have 6 stories and be fashioned after castles he saw in Europe in his youth. Before the castle was completed, Louise died. Boldt had work stop immediately, and he never returned to the island. 

The Thousand Islands Bridge Authority put a project in place to bring the castle back to the state it was in when abandoned. They did so well with the reconstruction and receipt of funds from visitors, however, that over the years, they have been completing rooms to Boldt's specification that were never completed in his lifetime.



Boldt Castle

Fun Tower at Boldt Castle

Housing for the generator

Because Louise's birthday was Valentine's Day, George Boldt did everything in hearts. The first change he made was to rename the island he purchased from Hart to Heart Island.



Heart-shaped Flower Bed
Map of the Grounds

Vicky, from Drifters, told me to download the Boldt phone application. We used that to guide us through the castle room-by-room. The first and second floors are completed and open to visitors. The third and fourth floors (out of six) have open sections that have not been reconstructed to show the difference between the state now and the state before reconstruction began.



Grand Staircase
(never completed when Boldt was alive)

View up the Grand Staircase to upper levels


Stained-glass dome 100' above the floor


Parlor / Receiving Room
Gentlemen Only Game Room

Formal Dining Room

"Modern" Kitchen

The library has fairy-tale pictures designed into the wood molding. Around the fireplace, Hansel and Gretel are depicted. Somewhere in the room (we did not find it) is Aladdin's Lamp.



Library

Reminded me of "Hogwarts" 

The Boldt family crest consists of a heart with the letter B surrounded by clover and topped with a stag.
Stained-glass Boldt Family Crest



Even the furniture is carved with the family crest.



Crest on a Dresser


Elevator

Louise Boldt Portrait

Louise's Bedroom

We took a quick peak at the third and fourth floors. Most of both floors are blocked off as too dangerous for visitors to view.


Third Floor Room
(before reconstruction begins)

View from a Third Floor Window 
View from a Third Floor Window



We also found our way down to the basement where we saw a pool which was most likely planned as a means to move the elevator from floor to floor.


Pool at Boldt Castle

Tiles / Building Supples dated c. 1900
From there we continued the audio tour to view the grounds surrounding the castle.

Arch where guests would arrive to visit the Boldt's c. 1900


Fountain at Arch


Gazebo where the Boldt's awaited their guests' arrival


Fountain


Four-seasons Garden and Statuary


Boldt never had statues.
They were added during reconstruction
using his original plans as a guide.

After touring the grounds we took the boat shuttle to the Yacht House.


View of Yacht House from the Shuttle

View of Yacht House after docking on the island

George Boldt had two children George Jr. and Louise "Clover" Boldt. Both George Jr. and Clover raced boats.

"PDQ" aka "Pretty Damn Quick"
(Model raced by Clover and her husband)



Kestrel was the name of the Boldt Yacht.


Kestrel - bow

Kestrel

Kestrel - aft

Kestrel 1892 Steam Engine

After completing the Boldt Castle tour, we headed back to the boat for our trip back to Clayton Harbor. We stopped briefly at Alexandria Bay to see if we could dock at the town dock long enough to have a look around, but we could not find a spot on the dock large enough. If only a jet ski had tied in a different spot, we would have been able to tie up.

As it was we pulled into the narrow fairway to look for a spot and had to back out to get back into the river. Everyone on both sides of the fairway stopped what they were doing to gawk at us / our boat while we maneuvered in and then out of the harbor.


View of Alexandria Bay
On the trip back to Clayton, we circled the islands and covered new territory on our ride to and from the marina. We went to the castle via U.S. waters and traveled back on the Canadian side.


Yet another house on yet another island

We travel Canadian Waters for the ride back to Clayton.

1000 Islands Tower
Stairs wrap around the tower to the observation deck on top.
If you make it there, you will find an ice cream shop to greet you.

Canadian "Green" Channel Marker
hiding in the trees

Canadian-style "Red" Channel Marker

Canadian Cabin on St. Lawrence River

"House on the Rocks"

We returned to our reserved spot at the Clayton marina. Two dock hands greeted us to help us tie up. For the remainder of the afternoon, we hung out and relaxed.


View as the sun lowers in the sky
 We had a varying sunset tonight making up for some nights when we get no sunset.