Saturday, April 23, 2016

Bahamas - Abacos: Baker's Rock anchorage

Day 286
NM Today: 3
NM to Date: 4401

We said farewell to Hope Town and headed to Baker's Rock anchorage for the night.

Restaurant at Hope Town Inn & Marina
It took no time at all to arrive at Baker's Rock anchorage where we planned to spend one night. Less than 30 minutes after leaving Hope Town we were dropping our anchor.

We backtracked to get to this anchorage because we had heard that Cracker P's Bar and Grill across the way from the anchorage planned to hold a Full Pink Moon Party tonight. With some time to kill before heading over to the party, we dropped the dinghy in the water and went exploring.

We landed on a nearby beach and walked around. Given the rough terrain of the beach area, I was glad I wore my water shoes with good heavy soles on them. Clark wore his dive boots to protect his feet.





We found a conch shell on the beach that Clark decided to bring back to the boat. We have to clean it up. I heard that it should be soaked in Clorox for 24 hours to clean it and kill any bacteria. A fellow boater told us we need to bring a conch shell with us on the Dismal Swamp portion of our return trip to New Jersey as one of the lock tenders collects them.

Our dinghy only has a 4 HP motor, so it is exceedingly slow to take us anywhere. The party started at 7:00. We left the beach to return to Sea Moss around 5:00 and started getting ready to leave for the party at 6:00. After a slow ride to the bar to reduce splash, we pulled up to the dinghy dock around 6:30. Then on the restaurant end of the ride, we secured the boat by tying it to the dock and deploying a stern anchor to hold position as required by the restaurant.  Even though we actually got there faster than I anticipated, it was approaching 7:00 by the time we entered the bar.


Waiting for Clark to go in to restaurant for the
Full Moon Party
The walkway up to the bar and grill had signs posted every few feet. I particularly liked this one.



For $25 per person, the all-you-can-eat buffet had a lot of excellent choices. In addition to the great cuisine, the bar had a special rum punch drink that was a very tempting pink color. Although I don't normally drink alcohol, I just had to have one!



We are definitely not folks who normally hang out in a bar, but meeting old friends and acquaintances for dinner is another matter altogether. When we entered Cracker P's, we saw that Sum Escape, Putzin Around, Job Site, and Grand Baron had arrived before us and already had some tables pulled together. They pulled up another table so we could join them for the evening.

Table of fellow boaters we met along the way on the
Great Loop or in Marathon, Florida
 It was great to see folks we have met previously. We have been several weeks with just each other for conversation. Comparing boating stories and experiences with others is always fun and refreshing.

The full moon did make an appearance
but it was not pink!
We left the party somewhere after 9:30 and headed out to the dock to collect our dinghy and leave. Fortunately the tide was high so the dinghy was only a few feet down from the top of the dock. Unfortunately the wind in the area made the water extremely choppy, so the dinghy rocked mercilessly on the water making it extremely hard to get in.

Clark climbed in first because he had a lot of preparation to do for us to ride back to Sea Moss in full darkness. As I stood looking down at the violently rocking dinghy wondering how on earth I was going to get into the boat, a dock hand from the restaurant came by and said he would hold the boat while I climbed in.

Normally I wait for instructions from Clark, but this guy was pretty insistent that he help me / us. With his help I sat on the dock and then dropped the short distance into the dinghy from there. It is not the method I would have chosen for myself, but it worked. I landed in the dinghy, found my seat, and very rapidly sat in it.

However Clark was no where near ready to depart, and now we had a dock hand holding the line instead of me. I tried to convince him to just hand me the end of the line, and I would hold the boat myself until we were ready to depart, but he refused as he said it was safer for him to help.

As Clark worked to get his GPS set up so we could find our way in the dark, the depth finder set up so we would not hit the sandbar near our boat, the red / green / all-around-white lights set up so that other boaters could see us as we made our way, and pulled in the stern anchor, the dock hand chatted away telling us about himself with frequent comments about boating that I could not fully understand.

It did not take too long for me to figure out that the dock hand was "drunker than a skunk" or "drunk as a lord" or "several sheets to the wind"... The fact that my life was in the hands of someone who had clearly overindulged in the spirit of the full moon party was not comforting at all.

Finally Clark started the engine and I hoped we would be able to be on our way. He had admonished the dock hand not to let the line go until he gave the word - our engine is extremely temperamental. Shortly after the engine started, it stopped. This happened probably three more times. We were not going anywhere fast!

Of course this gave the dock hand more topics to talk about like telling us to come back when he was sober (i.e. he admitted he was plowed) because he is an excellent mechanic. Meanwhile, I knew what Clark was doing as the engine has a recurring issue that Clark knows how to fix. Unfortunately he had to fix it in the dark, with only a flashlight, on a crazily rocking boat. Somehow he managed the repair in seemingly record time, and we finally said farewell to our line tender.

The ride back to Sea Moss was a wet one.  Clark tried a few different angles for taking the waves, but they always seemed to roll up and over the side of the dinghy to give us a good splash. I had on my rain coat for warmth (thank goodness) and my life jacket for self preservation. Both helped keep the top of me reasonably dry. I had brought a small hand towel in case I needed it for any reason. That I draped over my knees.

By the time we found Sea Moss (not easy in total darkness) and got ourselves on board, Clark's pants were drenched. My towel was soaked but that had protected most of my shorts except my right side which were also soaked. Since both his shorts and mine were drenched in salt water, that was the end of wearing them until we can get them washed.

We left the dinghy floating behind Sea Moss for the night with the plan to secure it on the swim platform before leaving for Man-O-War in the morning. As fast as we could reasonably get ourselves out of our wet pants and ready for bed, we retired for the night.


Friday, April 22, 2016

Bahamas - Abacos: Hope Town

Day 285 - Part 2
April 21, 2016
NM Today: 20
NM To Date: 4398

We left Little Harbor at 11:30 heading for Hope Town. Clark said he needed me to enter waypoints into the chart plotter, so that took priority over lunch preparation. I decided that I would throw a bunch of snacks together in a bag in case we didn't get lunch until we reached Hope Town.

The ride, although not fully calm, was much calmer than the day before. I held the chart in my lap so that when we approached a waypoint, I could tell Clark the next point to aim for. For a relatively short trip, we had a large number of waypoints - many of them only one to two nautical miles apart from each other. The continual rocking of the boat lulled me to sleep in between times.

At 2:30 we arrived at Hope Town and called the Hope Town Inn and Marina for accommodations who said they could take us for the night.



After a quick lunch on board to save time for sightseeing, we grabbed the shuttle to the other side of the harbor where the shops are located.


Since we heard it closed early, we had the shuttle drop us at the point closest to the museum. We entered through the shop next door. Clark decided not to pay the $5 admission fee for himself, so I toured the museum by myself.

Wyanne Malone History Museum

Conch Art Boats, Bowls, and Spoons in the Store

I was greeted by a Local Pirate (statue)
in the Museum

and a miniature pirate display
(the pirate in the corner looks surprisingly like the lead
in "Pirates of the Caribbean")
I tried not to spend too much time in the museum since Clark was waiting for me. As part of the tour a 20-minute video about the Abacos could be watched. I found it only moderately interesting so I left it after only 5 or so minutes to see what else the museum had to offer. I took lots of pictures of the diverse contents of the museum. Here are a few samples of the diversity of the displays.


Gorgeous Stained Glass Artwork

Statue of Museum's Namesake

(for Clark) a switch board
When I exited the museum, I found Clark outside wandering around taking some pictures of his own, and then we walked around town together.

School

Garden of a Private Home

Breadfruit Tree Brought to Hope Town
by Captain Bligh of Mutiny on the Bounty Infamy 

Miniature Replica of Home on Island
Called 'Lizard Lodge' and Home of Old Mr. Curlytail
(lizards here have curled tails)

Of course we found an ice cream shop - Munchies

We could see the lighthouse from town and after exploring the town offerings, we called the shuttle and went back to the marina. From there we walked to the lighthouse.

View of Lighthouse from Town

Trail to Lighthouse
 We made a wrong turn and found the Mangrove Bridge quite by accident. Interesting that once we crossed the bridge, we found it abruptly dead-ended, so apparently it was just there so we could walk through the mangroves without disturbing them. Finding a bridge to nowhere was reminiscent of our recent bike ride where we ended at the road to nowhere!

Mangrove Bridge

We wandered around for quite some time trying to puzzle out the access to the lighthouse. It turned out we had to walk through a marina and down to the water's edge to find the lighthouse path. Along the way we could see the section of town where we found the ice cream store Munchies.

View of Town from Lighthouse Marina

Elbow Reef Lighthouse in Hope Town
I waited outside while Clark hiked up to the top of the lighthouse. The sign said the lighthouse closed at 5:00 and it was now after that time. I looked at the padlock hanging on the door to the inside of the lighthouse and decided to wait as I did not fancy getting locked inside. As I stood and waited for Clark I could hear several roosters crowing - a common sound in this area.

On our way back to the marina from downtown and as we walked the trails trying to find the lighthouse, we had experienced some spots of rain. We took our raincoats, just in case, for the walk to the lighthouse. As we walked the trail, the dark clouds just kept rolling in, so we expected to get more than a few drips as the day progressed. We were not disappointed!

View of Dark Clouds from Lighthouse

Inside Lighthouse

Workings of the Lighthouse

View of Sea Moss from the Top of the Lighthouse

The Harbor as seen from Lighthouse

After our short hike to the lighthouse, we decided that it would be nice to take showers before having dinner. We decided to eat at the marina for a change and had a wonderful meal. As we dined the weather finally hit, and it rained quite heavily. We stayed dry in the restaurant, and fortunately it stopped raining before we left to walk back to the boat. 

Having had ice cream late afternoon, we passed on dessert after dinner and headed back to the boat where I spent the rest of the night blogging until midnight. At that point, too bleary-eyed to see or think, I went to bed and vowed to finish today's blog before leaving the marina and the WiFi behind.  I managed to post two and a half blog entries before retiring! With the very slow WiFi that was quite an accomplishment.


Bahamas - Abacos: Pete's Pub

Day 285 -- Part 1
No Travel

Sunrise at Little Harbor Anchorage

Before leaving Little Harbor anchorage, we decided to deploy the dinghy and go check out Pete's Pub. We found when we went to shore that the building we thought was Pete's Pub was not Pete's Pub and had several signs saying so.

Not Pete's Pub

Drift Wood Street Signs to Gallery, Foundry,
North Beach, and Lighthouse
We had read that the foundry was worth a visit, but we never found the foundry as we walked the area. We did hike to the lighthouse though.

Me walking the road to the lighthouse

The lighthouse turned out to be ruins only

Pretty old ruins by the look of it

the view from the lighthouse area was pretty though
and worth the walk

path to lighthouse ruins

another section of path to lighthouse ruins

We went over to the island to look around early. We got there about 9:30. That was good because it was cool for our walk to the lighthouse but bad because everything on the island was closed until later.  The gallery opened at 10:30 and the pub opened at 11:00. We decided we would wait for the gallery to open and sat down by the beach in the shade to wait. After I saw a woman collecting shells down the beach a ways, I decided to walk down to see what she had found.

I ended up spending my wait time talking to Lenore who was from the states and purchased a home in the Abacos four years ago. We sat in her chairs facing the beach and talked about boat trips we had each taken on the Erie Canal, Champlain Canal, and through Canada.

Clark took pictures on the outside of the gallery when it was still closed and then took quite a few once it opened.


Pete's Pub Gallery 

Metal Sculpture


Tribute to "the miracle on the Hudson" Plaque

Metal Sculpture of Sting Rays
 Inside the gallery ...

19" Turtle on Driftwood
by aritist Peter Johnston
$10,500 

Turtle on Conch Shell Sculpture
$11,500 

Old Man of the Sea "Hookup" Sculpture
$8650
We did not buy any of the pieces of art for obvious reasons. It was clearly out of our price range. It was lovely though.

We walked through Pete's Pub and took a wooden walkway out to view the beach. The wave action was awesome to see from the non-rocking shores. We decided that we would not hang around long enough to eat at the pub since we wanted to move on to Hope Town when we left this anchorage.

Pete's Pub has t-shirts hanging everywhere as decorations

Walkway to Beach


Lighthouse Ruins Way in the Distance

Mega-splash

Pathway Back to Dinghy Dock
The dock at the pier with "not Pete's Pub" was a tall fixed dock where we tied our dinghy. When we arrived there, I managed to climb up the ladder while holding the line to the dinghy to tie us on. Quite a feat for me.

Climbing back down the ladder to get into the dinghy to leave presented a scarier picture. I was quite proud of myself that I managed it. I am glad to say that although I am still very nervous about doing ti,  I am getting more used to climbing in and out of the dinghy and gaining more confidence with climbing up and down these dock ladders to do so.

We left the anchorage about 11:30 and headed to Hope Town for a night's stay in a marina.